#Arduino camera mount thingiverse Bluetooth#
The pan tilt mount can be controlled via Bluetooth or USB and has two modes: time-lapse and video motion control. Please tell us more about the overall functionality of your Pan/Tilt build. Laser turret to burn things?! We look forward to seeing if you build that. And the last reason was that I had a large bearing (which I used for the pan axis) I have always wanted to use for something. Another reason was I wanted to mount a powerful laser module to it and have a laser turret capable of burning things.
The main reason was I just got a new DSLR camera and wanted to be able to do some motion controlled shots for my YouTube channel. What motivated you to build your pan/tilt DSLR mount? Congratulations! We were impressed by your pan/tilt DSLR project. We’re sure studying something you love would have made it easier to complete your Masters. Designing and prototyping is definitely the area I enjoy the most! It’s an incredible feeling to be able to have an idea then make it into a reality. Robotics covers a vast number of subjects and gave me the great opportunity to discover which parts I was drawn to. I chose to do a general engineering course at college before studying robotics engineering at university, where I completed my Master’s degree. As a child I was always playing with LEGO and K’Nex (My current computer desk is actually made out of K’Nex!). My name is Isaac, I’m a spinal cord injury survivor living in the UK and trying to pursue a career in robotics engineering. Can you tell our readers a little about yourself, and what got you interested in electronics, 3D printing, coding, and robotics? Thank you for taking the time to chat with us Isaac. The angle between each picture and the delay between them can also be changed. Once it finds its zero position, it moves to its start and end points that it will move between while taking pictures for a timelapse. It has continuous rotation in both the pan and tilt axis, and has an auto homing feature.
#Arduino camera mount thingiverse portable#
His feature rich build is wireless with Bluetooth connectivity, and portable thanks to a rechargeable LiPo. What we discovered was a talented robotics graduate who had built an Arduino-based DSLR cradle to take timelapse and panoramic photos. We just had to get in touch with Isaac to find out more.
We discovered Isaac’s amazing project online when a video of his servo controlled pan/tilt camera cradle caught our eye. insert a 3d printing board in the middle of the lens and PCB board instead of rubber wool.Isaac applied his knowledge of robotics and electronics to build this Arduino Nano controlled pan/tilt camera mount for time-lapse and video motion control. set up a large housing, taking into account the expansion and contraction of the rubber wool, the lens and PCB board included in the housing, compress the thickness of the lens and PCB board to achieve.Ģ. for Pan Tilt camera system with just 4 drops of superglue:Īs you said, theoretically it should be parallel, but considering that the glue is not a stable plane, there is still a slight difference in use.ġ. In times before I had 3Dprinter, I used superglue for nearly everything, eg. If that is correct, a bit of superglue between PCB and sensor will fixate the sensor, and if done correctly with planes parallel as you want. If I remember correctly, the thin layer is not fixated on PCB. I don't have my v3 camera at hand currently.Īccording datasheet the thin layer is 11.3-6.98-2.75-1.12=0.45mm: Wood_camv3.jpg (198.62 KiB) Viewed 680 timesīut again I have a question about the parallelism of the focal plane of the lens and the PCB board, how should I ensure that the two are parallel? Hmm, Z axis is only 48mm, 3D print head on 3018? Maybe I should have got a 3D printer and wood filament?ĭrilling a bigger hole in 3D printed plastic for the bigger lens seem simple to me, instead of modifying the file and printing again.īut if you have a bunch of camera PCBs needing cases. Got impatient with learning G-coding on FreeCAD and cut it by hand. The FreeCAD design was just three layers of 6.6mm Paulownia wood, but handy to figure out sizes and clearances.
Things will go faster once I learn to use FreeCAD, bCNC and my new 3018 mill/laser.Īnyway it made good use of the spare Pi4 4GB the Pi400 made redundant.ĭual monitors for FreeCAD on one screen, bCNC on the other, also handy to search for bCNC/3018 tutorials. Took me two weeks to source the tools and materials, three days to cut, glue, carve and stain. This is a prototype to take close up pictures of the learning, making of new(nova old) things
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